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Offline notreffats

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Engine vibration
« on: Jul 16, 2018, 10:29 PM »
Hi there I'm notreffats, last year I bought a 2006 Kawasaki KLE650, I thoroughly enjoyed it, its still in my garage. Very recently I bought a newer version of the same bike, a 2010 model, very clean & looks good. The 2006 model is smooth, vibration free, a pleasure to ride. The 2010 model looks well kept & cared for, but vibrates uncomfortably at 5,000 rev's and above, Ive removed all body work, crash bars, no change. You feel thru the pegs, seat & bars. Its not critical but annoying , as the older bike is smooth. Ive tried everything, is that problem on all 2010 models? Help please.

Offline Gustavo

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Re: Engine vibration
« Reply #1 on: Jul 17, 2018, 12:08 AM »
How many miles on the newer V?  Has it ever been serviced - valves, TB sync, etc.?

Are you sure it's engine speed related?  Does it vibrate more in all gears over 5K RPM?

Gustavo
Always yield to temptation, it may not pass your way again - Ken Morton

Offline notreffats

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Re: Engine vibration
« Reply #2 on: Jul 17, 2018, 06:35 AM »
Thank you for you reply, the newer V has done just 13,000 miles, and has been dealer serviced all its life. I'm sure it's engine speed related, any gear at 5000 rpm. In top gear 63 mph is ok, above that the vib comes, and it doesn't pass thru it to a smooth area at higher revs. Ive had to tywrap the rear footpegs up as when they are down but not in use by a passenger  they "buzz" badly. Also removed the handlebar bar end weights as the rhs one " buzzed" too.

Offline tommyvous

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Re: Engine vibration
« Reply #3 on: Jul 17, 2018, 06:54 PM »
my 2008 will "buzz" at certain rpms. occasionally while warming up below 2000, always passing through the upper 3000's, always ABOVE approx 7000 rpm. always been that way. no course vibrations, no significant fine vibrations otherwise at other rpms, and has nothing to do with gear. this is just for your reference. as it's a used bike, and you tightened fasteners/bolts, might be good to give it a good go over checking all the service basics that might make it run rough (plugs, oil/filter, air box/filter clean, valves, old/bad gas, TB's, etc. unfortunately, just because someone says the work was done, doesn't mean that it was REALLY done. years ago, i caught a popular mechanic in our town simply blowing out our car's plugs with compressed air, putting them back in, then charging us for new plugs! not so many years ago, i went for the first "free" oil change/service on my new car. when i got home, it was the same old oil and dirty filter. the guy penciled his work. sucks. you have to be careful.

Offline uralrob

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Re: Engine vibration
« Reply #4 on: Jul 18, 2018, 02:02 AM »


 +1 to dubious dealer practices. Try to double check that specified work actually has been done.

 TBs refers to throttle body synchronisation. Some V.s come unsynchronised from factory and the selling dealer doesn't bother to check them. If they are out of balance they result in vibes and sub par performance.
 They should be checked when the bike is new and after every valve shim swap. I do mine annually as a matter of routine.

 Rob.
Don't take Life too serious, it's not permanent.

Offline notreffats

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Re: Engine vibration
« Reply #5 on: Jul 18, 2018, 06:56 AM »
*Originally Posted by uralrob [+]

 +1 to dubious dealer practices. Try to double check that specified work actually has been done.

 TBs refers to throttle body synchronisation. Some V.s come unsynchronised from factory and the selling dealer doesn't bother to check them. If they are out of balance they result in vibes and sub par performance.
 They should be checked when the bike is new and after every valve shim swap. I do mine annually as a matter of routine.

 Rob.
Thank you, I've only got this second V from a dealer recently, he is happy to take it back in & look into the vibe problem, maybe TB sinc is at the heart of the problem? Cheers Steve


Offline notreffats

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Re: Engine vibration
« Reply #6 on: Jul 18, 2018, 06:59 AM »
*Originally Posted by tommyvous [+]
my 2008 will "buzz" at certain rpms. occasionally while warming up below 2000, always passing through the upper 3000's, always ABOVE approx 7000 rpm. always been that way. no course vibrations, no significant fine vibrations otherwise at other rpms, and has nothing to do with gear. this is just for your reference. as it's a used bike, and you tightened fasteners/bolts, might be good to give it a good go over checking all the service basics that might make it run rough (plugs, oil/filter, air box/filter clean, valves, old/bad gas, TB's, etc. unfortunately, just because someone says the work was done, doesn't mean that it was REALLY done. years ago, i caught a popular mechanic in our town simply blowing out our car's plugs with compressed air, putting them back in, then charging us for new plugs! not so many years ago, i went for the first "free" oil change/service on my new car. when i got home, it was the same old oil and dirty filter. the guy penciled his work. sucks. you have to be careful.
Thank you, I agree dealers can be a dodgy lot. Cheers Steve