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Offline grumpyoldgit

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Heed crash bars (for MK1) fitting instructions?
« on: Jun 04, 2020, 03:53 PM »
Yes, those pig ugly ones, but to fair they were only 40 quid (used but clean). Anyone have any instructions or photos of how they're mounted on a MK1.
I can probably work it out without but I'd just like to check that I have all the relevant nuts and bolts etc.


Offline Stewie

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Re: Heed crash bars (for MK1) fitting instructions?
« Reply #1 on: Jun 04, 2020, 04:34 PM »
Tools needed

3 hammers,
1x 1kg for initial fitting, https://www.screwfix.com/p/magnusson-fibreglass-handled-club-hammer-1kg/9984v
1x 16 ounce for lining up and final installation https://www.screwfix.com/p/magnusson-one-piece-claw-hammer-16oz/1317v
1x 4 ounce for fine tuning https://www.screwfix.com/p/magnusson-fibreglass-cross-pein-hammer-4oz/6200v

150mm nails, I have selected the corrosion resistant ones for you, you do not want this to go rusty!! https://www.screwfix.com/p/easyfix-exterior-nails-outdoor-green-corrosion-resistant-6-x-150mm-0-25kg-pack/84952

Bit of selotape will also help, I am sure you already have some in the house.

Get the new bars and hold them up where you want them to be, hold them in place with Selotape or a get a young child to hold them for you.
 You are going to want at least two nails at the top and two more in the bottom and at least one on each side.
Get the first nail in at the top, it might bit a wee bit tight but this is why we have the 1kg hammer, a good few swings will get it through the bars and into the tank.
If it looks a bit high or if you need to move it around use the 16 ounce hammer for adjustment.

Once you are happy with the position get both of the bottom nails in, this should be easier going because the sump is only aluminium.
Final position adjustments then get the final top one in and both of the sides.
Again might be a bit tight but getting it in but a really good swing on the hammer will help and the ones into the engine case will be easier.

Word of caution, it the ones in the middle go in easy and then start to get tight you will need to move it because you are probably hitting the cylinder liner.
Pro tip, if you dont want to move it, it would look untidy with extra holes, start the engine and get a few revs on it and then hit the nail home. With the engine running it will chop off the top of the nail as it goes into the cylinder and you will not risk having the nail in through the piston or on top of it preventing movement.

Once it is secured in place you can use the 4oz hammer to tidy the nail heads up if you have not hit then squarely.

Repeat on the other side and away you go!

Always happy to help, no need for thanks.
But do remember, pictures or it didnt happen!!!

Offline grumpyoldgit

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Re: Heed crash bars (for MK1) fitting instructions?
« Reply #2 on: Jun 04, 2020, 04:49 PM »
Many thanks!
Hammers - check
sellotape - check
Small child- I can borrow one from the neighbours (r/h/side of course, the one on the left is a ginger  :goggle: )
Nails - I have some of the appropriate ones but mine all have the heads on the same end, so I'll have to get some for the other side .

 :020:

Offline Stewie

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Re: Heed crash bars (for MK1) fitting instructions?
« Reply #3 on: Jun 04, 2020, 05:00 PM »
*Originally Posted by grumpyoldgit [+]
Many thanks!
Hammers - check
sellotape - check
Small child- I can borrow one from the neighbours (r/h/side of course, the one on the left is a ginger  :goggle: )
Nails - I have some of the appropriate ones but mine all have the heads on the same end, so I'll have to get some for the other side .

 :020:

No no no, you should definitely use the ginger one from the L/H/S.
If you break it by accident they wont mind too much.

Offline grumpyoldgit

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Re: Heed crash bars (for MK1) fitting instructions?
« Reply #4 on: Jun 09, 2020, 08:42 PM »
Sorted!

Managed with just the one hammer (but did need a run up!) and sellotape, but due to Covid restrictions couldn't borrow a small child so struggled without.
I also had few pics sent from a gent on FB (of the bars - you filthy minded so and so!) just to aid Stewie's in-depth instructions.

Had to get some extra nails (longer ones) from Kawasaki apart from that very straightforward.

For future reference there are two U clamps for the top bar and one spacer (for the left hand side engine mount) and two bolts.

If you're a gynaecologist you may be ables to fit the top U clamps without removing any bodywork, and whilst willing to give it a go, I am not so I removed the top side and rad fairings to make life easier.

The bottom mounting bolts replace the front engine mounting bolts.
The one on the right is 5mm longer (to cover the thickness of the mounting bracket) than the original (95mm) = 100mm
The one on the left is the size of the original (47mm) + spacer (30mm) +5mm (thickness of bracket) = 82mm

I bought some original engine mounting bolts (for different models) from Kawasaki just to be safe and used the original nuts.

R.H. bolt is BOLT,FLANGED,10X100 Part Number: 92154-0083 (ER-6F)
L.H. bolt is BOLT,FLANGED,10X85 Part number: 92153-1899 (ZR1000B7F) (I'm still waiting for this one)