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Author [NL] [FR] [ES] [DE] [SE] [IT] [NO] [MY] Topic: Chocolate Screws  (Read 1782 times)

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Offline Gustavo

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Re: Chocolate Screws
« Reply #10 on: Jan 01, 2022, 10:12 PM »
Ignore both the fluid volume and levels in the manual.  Both are wrong, i.e if you use the fluid volume as a guide, the level is way too low and the level listed leaves too small an air gap on what is already a pretty harsh setup. 

Depending on your weight, use 7.5 or 5 wt fork oil.  Also, leave a much bigger air gap, I'd start with about a little less than the total fork travel (which is 150mm).  Say, 140 mm air gap.  If you think it bottoms too easily, it's relatively easy to add more oil in small increments and see if the ride improves. 

Gustavo
Always yield to temptation, it may not pass your way again - Ken Morton

Offline jdoyle

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Re: Chocolate Screws
« Reply #11 on: Jan 02, 2022, 08:46 AM »
*Originally Posted by uralrob [+]

 I use a notched dowel to measure from the top of the tube to the oil level.

 From p 13-13 in the Mk 1 service manual:

 Right fork leg: 75+/- 2mm from the top of the outer tube.
 Left fork leg:   65+/- 2mm  from the top of the outer tube.

 Measured with forks fully compressed and minus spring, piston rod fully in.

 Once you get within 5mm or so it doesn't take much to overfill.

 Rob.
Thanks Rob
I have one of the Measuring tools that has the syringe
You set the depth on it and sit it on top of the tube and suck out the excess
Like this one
https://www.amazon.com/Pit-Posse-PP1729-Syringe-Motorcycle/dp/B004N1KHMS

Got the first leg apart yesterday with my home made spring compressor :-) replaced the seals  ready to put back together
Hopefully it will be straight forward :-)
Cheers

*Originally Posted by Gustavo [+]
Ignore both the fluid volume and levels in the manual.  Both are wrong, i.e if you use the fluid volume as a guide, the level is way too low and the level listed leaves too small an air gap on what is already a pretty harsh setup. 

Depending on your weight, use 7.5 or 5 wt fork oil.  Also, leave a much bigger air gap, I'd start with about a little less than the total fork travel (which is 150mm).  Say, 140 mm air gap.  If you think it bottoms too easily, it's relatively easy to add more oil in small increments and see if the ride improves. 

Gustavo
Thanks Gustavo
I'm about 76kg
The fork oil I have is Motul 7.5
I will put in a bit less now I know the cap wont fly off in my hand it should I need to add more oil  :-)
Cheers
J





« Last Edit: Jan 02, 2022, 09:00 AM by jdoyle »

Offline Topbox

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Re: Chocolate Screws
« Reply #12 on: Jan 02, 2022, 10:57 AM »
Generically upside down forks have an air gap of 100mm +/- 10mm. That's the figure I've gone with.

TB

Offline jdoyle

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Re: Chocolate Screws
« Reply #13 on: Jan 02, 2022, 08:39 PM »
Drilled and tapped the 4 broken mudguard bolts as they wouldn't  budge drilled at 4.5 expecting the remains to come out but no joy
So opened them out to 5 and tapped 6mm seems ok

Filled the Left fork leg with the specified amount of oil which fell short of the air gap by about 10mm so it finished 75 instead of 65 so I thought that I could leave it at that
as you guys have suggested a bigger air gap
And and with the lighter 7.5 oil hopefully that will do it I also left the right fork and additional 10mm also
If it is a bit harsh I can remove the cap and suck out a little more with he tool that I bought 
Modified wood clamp worked well to compress the spring
bolted on 2 pieces of 14mm flat steel that I bent in to shape and drilled and tapped two 8mm bolts to go in to the fork spacer
And used a piece of cable to pull the rod through the spring to reattach the cap as the Rod kept slowly retreating back in to the tube
If the weather holds out and I have enough painkillers left I will repaint the lower black bottom part of the forks tomorrow









Offline Clunkyboy

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Re: Chocolate Screws
« Reply #14 on: Jan 03, 2022, 09:15 AM »
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Offline jdoyle

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Re: Chocolate Screws
« Reply #15 on: Jan 09, 2022, 08:18 PM »
Progressed on to the Steering Head bearings
While I had the Forks off if you rotated the steering triple T it kind of stuck / popped in to the straight ahead position and needed a little shove to get it out of the rut :-(
Looks like another original bearing
beat out the old bearings today top one was no prob at all but bottom one took a bit of doing